Wet sanding prior to sealer and then paint.

Finally getting to the rear panel for some wet-sanding, and a coat of sealer before I get focused on some orange paint.

I know what you're thinking; no I'm not wet sanding in the garage. I had just finish for the night, and drug the panel/PVC paint prop back into the garage for the night. PVC...the painter's duct-tape of bodywork. I built 3 props out of 3/4" PVC, and none weigh more than 10 lbs, and can be completely cut down to small pieces in minutes when I'm through. These that I made won't hold up to an airfile, but they are rigid enough for wet-sanding.

http://www.fototime.com/D61381DDFFE3C6B/standard.jpg

I've finished the front last week:

http://www.fototime.com/7FEE514B7F40A30/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/1CF86BEA61883A0/standard.jpg

That rear body section is great! Since you are waiting before you paint it, why not whip up a quick(?) mold of it, using this process:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5455397_make...anel-mold.html


That way, later, you can whip out some carbon fiber rear hatches!

Terry the rear section looks 'flatter' than mine. Is it just the angle or did you modify it? I notice the center section filled in, for downforce or asthetics?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jerry

That rear body section is great! Since you are waiting before you paint it, why not whip up a quick(?) mold of it, using this process:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5455397_make...anel-mold.html

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Nice information. I've worked with plaster, and it is heavy, and does generate a lot of heat if sufficiently thick and mixed right. Both of which concern me as applied to making a mold. I'm still thinking about some kind of molding for those portions that would be harder to replicate than other portions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sulley

Terry the rear section looks 'flatter' than mine. Is it just the angle or did you modify it? I notice the center section filled in, for downforce or asthetics?

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The rear was dropped probably 4 to 5 inches over the OEM Mirage height. Mainly to maintain proper tire to fender gap clearance with the planned tire height of 26". But an inadvertent benefit was that it almost perfectly matched the rake of the McLaren M8 body angle. The top of the rear bodywork is about 3" taller than the top of the front fender bodywork (but I also had to drop the nose as well). I'm assuming your comment on the filled in center section is in reference to the oil cooler and brake duct cut-outs? If so, I've just not gotten to that yet. Aesthetics would be the the reason to leave it as is, but that would then be yet another deviation from an already distance resemblance. Air flow in this area is probably not the best with the stacks and windshield turbulence. It sure looks good without all the cut-outs though, so I'm not sure where I'll go with that.

My next piece of bodywork fabrication is to replicate the M8 "A" rear spoiler instead of a wing. I'm not too crazy about a wing for a street car (personal preference only, and the added weight, bracing, and tilt rear-end all argue against it), and I really like the visual balance of the "A" spoiler on the back. I've got some foam sheet used for fiberglass panels, plus some 1/8" fiberglass sheet that should work well for this piece. I'll send photos when I start on that. If I follow through with this piece, then I will probably cut out the cooler and brake duct holes.

I think I agree with you on the 'A' spoiler versus a wing on a street car.