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I've done the cnc, milling, laser, waterjet and some of the powdercoating.
The frame was too big for me to do it myself so for $600, a company sandblasted and powdered it.
My welding I don't trust, so I pay a welder who does that.
The ratio I believe is more like .75 on the front. Maybe 350 lb would be better? We will see how it rides. The springs are only $43 and I probably will buy another set or two later? Hopefully not.
Jerry I have a number of questions:
1) Do you have a template you can share of the rear spring set up - I'm wanting to possibly imitate what you did so any info is helpful.
2) On the front where did you buy the upper A arm - do you have a link?
3) Do you have a template you can share of the upper mounts?
4) You kept the stock lower control arm? Any particular reason why?
5) Did you coat the inside of the frame/coolant rails yourself with the Eastwood product?
6) How are you now going to set up the coolant lines?
thanks
1 Yes. is there a file format you want for cad, or do you want a picture and something dimensioned for scaling purpose?
2 ebay. yes I can send a link to a similar set. Or search "mustang 2 a arms tubular". You could pay more and get adjustable. some are wider than stock, some are stock size ...
3. yes.
4. I read there is less adjustablity with lower tubulars. You could buy Adjustable a arms there though. Tubulars are stronger, they mount stronger, the stocker my have more comfort and flex more with rubber mounting. Trade offs in comfort, accuracy, adjustability, work required to do it. The only adjustment I see is the trailing link rod length on the stock lowers.
5. yes. spray can with a long wand on it, or they have a wand that goes on a paint gun.
6. Two aluminum pipes down one side pod 1.75" dia, 1/16" wall thickness. It should radiate some heat too.
Adjustable like this:
There are options on what you want to do. Easyer wheel alignment.
Sulley,
If you do a Boxster transaxle your rear set up will probably be cut off and totally changed?
If you have a shop and they can plasma cnc cut or laser cut .... I need to give you a file format they can accept. DXF probably. A picture (template) and a cutting torch I guess has worked for years too.
1 drawing emailed.
Another emailed.
My browser crashes when I try to post it here. I'll try a different computer.
I didn't like this mount, so I milled another pair out of steel ...
Nice solution. How thick is the steel under the new mount. It looks like several well-welded plates?
Thanks Jerry I received the files - well I've been able to find a company that can make axles with a corvette u joint on one end and the Porsche on the other. I think this should allow me to utilize the stock rear suspension. But I would still like to upgrade the rear suspension in the process along the lines of what you have done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry
So this would just bolt through the frame for the lower control arm position?
If I missed it in the prior post my apologies but what or how did you source the lower mounts? You seem to be making fast progress on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry
Jerry where did you say you were from? Under MyProfile you can edit all your personal info and put a personal image in your avatar if you want.
Jerry on the front are you using a stock Mustang II front spindle or did you do a drop spindle or something else?
The Corvair trailing arms have a round disc welded on the old spring perch area. The disc is 1/4 steel 3" in diameter and welded on top and inside. The mount is steel milled out of a solid block. I could go with this or use this mount as a fixture to align two normal tab mounts that would look very conventional but really not be stronger. About the same.
Trying to build strong, and suggestions are always appreciated.
My upper A-Arms are stock width (track), and the spindles are stock, not dropped.
Brakes ... I need some brakes now ... researching how I can get the right diameter discs front and rear.
11.5" rear 88 vette, front should then be 12 or 12.5 ....
I think I had an rc car that looked like this ...
Hey, guys, I've been unable to fully open your Thumbnail pics, so maybe I'm in error, here----are you intending to place an "inward load" on your half-shafts, and do you have a transaxle designed for that sort of loading? The Corvair diff was, so a upper "radius rod" was not needed. On my Porsche 930 transaxle, the diff case is NOT designed to handle any inward loading on the axles, and effectively needed an upper and lower radius rod (each one, from the suspension hub/upright to the upper and lower portion of the chassis. I don't know about the Boxster configuration (can't open the pics and drawings above), so you might have the same situation. Please check out the pics of my rear suspension (mid-gen Corvette hubs, brakes, flanges; fabbed Corvette half-shafts, machined shaft-to-differential-flange adapters, and the FIVE radius rods). Two rods go forward to the chassis behind the fuel tanks; one is above the half-shaft, another is below the half-shaft, and a rear radius rod controls rear track tow-in/out. It's been roadworthy over 150 MPH, so I'm comfortable with this design. (Nice, too, to have the stock Corvette brakes, bearing, and parking brake set-up.
Attachment 294 Attachment 295
Hey Ken - are you logged in when you try to open the thumbnail pics? Also your attachments did not seem to work. I'd delete these and click on the paper clip which should take you to where you can upload images from your computer.
I was logged on, when I tried to "open" the Thumbnails. I saw the small Thumbnail pic, clicked on it, but never got the larger image opened.
I'm trying to send my pics again, as attachments to this..... Please let me know if you can view them..........
Attachment 312 Attachment 314 Attachment 313
I see three thumbnails, and all three are visible in a larger image when clicked on.
Ken,
Those pictures can't be a Manta, I think by mistake you posted formula 1 car pix. (kidding).
Nice work. My car is going to use the Corvair X-axle. I am going to use new heavy duty u-joints because you don't want to see what happens to the wheel alignment if you break one.
Pics look great now Ken! Q: Why did you hold back and cut corners when you did your suspension set up?! Just kidding looks amazing. I'll swap you a nice corvair set up for yours if you are interested!
Terry, thanks..... I don't know what I did (PC magic, I guess), and got the pics working. I had posted these and others in David Savage's forum--do you want me to post some more on this forum?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueovalz
Ahhh, got it--Corvair transaxle..... Yep, they are designed to take lateral loads on their half-shafts. As an aside, if you are planning on using the stock Corvair lower hub-to-transaxle link, you might want to replace thse with lengths of DOM tubing with a RH rod end on one end, and a LH threaded rod end on the other--this link will work like a large "turnbuckle" when you screw in/out the tubing, and make it easier to adjust the alignment of the rear end. (If you use this approach, don't forget to use "jam nuts" against the rod ends--to prevent the link from unscrewing further, this possible catastrophic results(!).
Speedway Motors sells swaged steel tubes in varying lengths that are threaded RH & LH on the ends. They have rod end bearings too at reasonable prices.
I think I have lower tubes made from DOM and they do have Heim joints on both ends.
I have a set of 1988 Corvette rear brake parts nearly ready to install. The rotors measure 12" to the edge and I thought I would be getting 11.5", we will see if they fit or not.
Ok so the forum adaptors to hold the '88 calipers, require you get '87 rotors. They are 11.5" rotors and use the drum style e brake. We don't use that type of e brake.
Jerry;Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry
Something is wrong-- I used '88 Vette rotors and calipers on the rear of MANTA2. Those rotors are not the small drum variety. The adapter drawings that I posted are the ones that I used for the '88 setup.
For some reason the photo insert isn't working. Ill try again.
I tried to insert a photo too.
Well I think we can agree 11.5" is a go and 12" is a no go.
picture worked.
The upper rotor is 88. Didn't fit.
The lower rotor is 87. Did fit.
The caliper is 88.
Top view:
Attachment 346
This disc was supposed to have a drum style e brake in it but it is right there on the caliper, ready for C4 e brake cables.
Ok here is an early sneak peak of the front.
12.2" dia rotor.
Calipers are 4 piston, 3.2 lbs. Rotor set up is light too with alum. hubs.
GM wheel studs to match the rear.
The kit gives you bolts, new wheel bearings, pads, good value.
Attachment 348
Looks like the brakes are just about finished! I like the front set-up.
I have swapped the rear calipers side to side because I want the e-brake cable routing up, not down.
Terry your car looks amazing, as does Neil's work.
The brake kit I bought for the front was this one:
Time for a Mantacarsforum legal disclamer ...
Nothing on this thread, or any other thread at this forum constitutes advice or instruction on how build a car intended for on road use or off. The stories on this forum are for entertainment purposes only, and only are an account of our experience for which we take full responsibilty. Only fully certified shops should direct you with your build if you chose to do one and we don't even recommend you persue one, or drive fast, or even get out of bed in the morning home skillet.
You are responsible for your choices and actions, choose wisely and you do so at your own risk.
Now where was I, oh yeah, on with the madness ...
Got the shift linkage pretty much installed today.
Some parts that need help
Jerry
Did some attorney tell you that you needed a disclaimer? I am still from the school that you are responsible for your choices and actions...nobody else made you do it....just sayin'
Dan
I just threw it in there so we are all covered, so lets see some other builds guys.
I would like to see your thread what you are working on.
Master cyl.s and brake lines go on soon.
Attachment 362Attachment 363
I will drill and slot the rear rotors and add black paint later. And probably paint all four calipers red, later.
I added a tab to the outboard side of the lower shock mounting. I don't think I needed it for strength, but it just looks more complete this way.
Attachment 364