Looks great. The double-shear was a good idea.
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Looks great. The double-shear was a good idea.
Car is coming along well! Good suggestion we will ad the 'disclaimer' to the terms of service.
New master cyl.s are in, hard lines going in, trans getting cleaned and painted black. I need to prep and paint engine too.
Jerry what is this part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry
Any recent pics. Any pics of the new cooling lines? Q: would your fabricator make a complete 2nd set of parts that he made for your car?
The crusty and powdercoat part is a waterpipe that went up front at the radiator. (picture on post #9). I know, why not just get a u pipe with a tight smooth bend? Well I can later.
I have not put in coolant lines yet. I think 2 aluminum or 2 steel galvanized pipes through 1 side pod will work.
Are you going to go through passenger side pod or driver? Also what are you doing for steering? Column, box, rack, etc.
Are you changing bushings to all poly?
Why did you opt to not use a drop spindle? Is there a disadvantage when doing that?
Soryy for all the questions.
Blasting old parts and then painting or powder coating makes them look new! Great job!
I've never heard of that bellhousing before; is it an aluminum aftermarket piece?
You're welcome, Jerry. Using a waterjet is a good idea. I'll bet someone else would pay you for a set of those adapters.
The water lines will go through the driver side. I am using the stock spindles I have, if I need to lower the front then that is an option. I am using rubber bushings, maybe I will change to poly if I need it.
The bellhousing adaptor looks the same as a Kelmark. It is a cast aluminum part that is from a company I have not heard of either.
I am putting a new slave cyl. on it now made for a 1962 chevy truck.
Engine and trans go in soon ....
Front steering rack and column is from 1978 Mustang 2.
Working on engine pully alignment right now.
Attachment 384
More cleaning and parts needed here ...
(Polished alum heads and a polished Hilborn wouldn't look too bad right about now!)
Now would be a good time to replace your water pump with a high flow balanced pump such as one from Edelbrock, Stewart, etc. It will help the cooling system quite a bit.
I love these build thread updates. When I tear down my Manta Mirage I will start one!
So is this an LS engine? The valve covers look like an LS style. The heads looked like 'camel hump' heads. Looking great! You'll have to have it completed for the 'Manta Reunion'!
The engine is a 350 Vortec.
Ya know, I bought and installed a new water pump.
Why didn't I buy a high flow aluminum pump? I don't know, but I am now.
See, your comments and suggestions are valuable people.
Would it make sense to get an electric?
The only things on the belt would be the crank and the alternator.
Is it hard to get a belt that short?
When and where is the Manta reunion?
link?
NEVERMIND. Found it searching the word reunion on this forum.
1) You can get some very short belts. I've used an alternator only with both V-belts as well as the grooved belts (serpentine).
2) I found the Manta reunion string, but it does not state a where or when. Is that TBD, or am I missing another string?
1. Ok
2. TBD. You found it.
Sulley, we can't wait to read your build thread too ! It kinda helps keep the project moving I think.
Well I threw the idea out there. I thought it might be pretty amazing to get a number of us together with our cars somewhere. I probably need a year to be where I want to on my car. We could do something central like Dallas but I don't want to highjack this thread....
I'm not a fan of electric water pumps although they are sometimes necessary. Their biggest problem is that they don't flow enough to generate as much back pressure in the cylinder heads as a mechanical pump does. This pressure raises the coolant boiling point in the heads and keeps steam pockets from forming and creating hot spots. A good electric water pump draws a lot of current!
Not sure if this addresses Neil's points, but I reverse-flow my LS, with the water going into the heads first. So perhaps the lower initial temperatures, plus the pressure drop from that water exiting the block, help prevent the issues stated with electric pumps. Thus far I've been very happy with my remote pump. Another feature I really like is that air in the coolant system is easily determined by a cavitation sound at the pump, that gets quieter as more air is removed from the system. Almost dead quiet when it's passing 100% water.
The importance of coolant pressure in the heads is important when you are generating a lot of power for some period of time-- racing, climbing a steep grade, etc. Normal street driving is pretty moderate so an electric pump can work just fine. Expensive, though, compared to a belt- driven pump.
Would an inline pump in combination with a mechanical pump be an option?
It might work but why use both?
I have the same sentiment as Neil. I also wonder what kind of flow restriction exists if one of the pumps isn't turning. If it becomes restrictive, then two pumps doubles the risk of a failure, but probably provides little needed additional flow to keep everything cool.
I put the engine in. 1 man operation, just go super slow and keep checking clearance.
Attachment 388
Easy does it...
Attachment 390
Attachment 389
Putting in the transaxle and halfshafts next ...
Progress is always good! Keep the updates and photos coming.
Terry
I bought a flywheel for an '88 Camaro. This is a Vortec engine and a Vortec flywheel won't work, it is a 168 tooth. The old 327 flywheel won't work, the 6 bolt pattern on the crank is not the same. An '88 Camaro flywheel fits the Vortec crank bolt pattern and has the smaller outside diameter 153 tooth starter gear that fits inside the belhousing.
The flywheel that was there is a 28 lb I think, and the new one is a 17 lb.
I ordered a mini reduction starter that should be here in 1 more day. These have hole patterns to mount for 168 or 153 tooth.
By using a mini- starter you will save quite a few pounds of weight and use less current to crank the engine. Series wound starter motors were used for years and work OK but the small gear reduction starter is a much better approach- especially as compression ratios go up.
Upper left: 186 tooth flexplate that came on the Votec engine. -Gear too big
Upper right: 153 flywheel that came with the Manta on 327 Chevy engine. -Crank bolt circle pattern too big.
Lower left: New '88 Camaro 153 tooth 16.8 lb flywheel. -Fits.
Lower right: Mini reduction starter.
Attachment 397
Replaced the original u-joints. I think they are factory Corvair. See the neck area thickness? These thicker ones on the right don't have zerk fittings also.
It isn't just that you might have a high power engine, these are stressed from the rear wheels to some degree, and an integral part of the suspension.
It is easy to find Spicer heavy duty u-joints with or without zerk fittings.
Spicer part number ( removed, there are better ones later on this page ).
click on picture.
Attachment 398
That is a very good idea. Thanks for posting the part number, Jerry.
I can't take credit for the idea, I read it from the V8 Corvair guys. Since someone broke one, that only points to the part being the weakest link (or those bolts backed out). Anyway the stock one looks weak. The Spicer looks good, I am not sure if there is a Spicer with the circlips on the outside, or if these can be used either way ... I am trying to find out more.
Thanks for posting the updates as well as the part numbers. That helps novices like me!
The Spicer u joints I showed will not work. See the groove near the black rubber seal? That is for an internal circlip and you can't use our external circlip on this one.
The 1310 series u joint is the size we use. It is also the size used on the driveshaft of a big block Corvette!
I was told also that if I use a heavy duty u joint I could end up now tearing up a more expensive half shaft now.
The Jeep guys want the u joint to break because it is cheaper.
Sorry if it is confusing at this point, but I want you to have the info!
I am not a jeep driver and I don't want one to break, these look good ...
Choose a u joint that you like, buy American, not Chinese. :-)
This looks like it will be sorted out soon, it isn't that hard.