When I raise the fiberglass hatch up it is pretty wobbly, flimsy. I thought about laying styrofoam piping around the perimeter, and glassing over it.
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When I raise the fiberglass hatch up it is pretty wobbly, flimsy. I thought about laying styrofoam piping around the perimeter, and glassing over it.
I believe that is a bit of work, that increases the panel weight, and provides only marginal improvement in rigidity (and the added weight counters what you're trying to do. I ran into the same issues with my panel. For a stock panel, I would guess that one thing that may help is to bond a thin floor under the OEM sculpturing that rises off the panel to blend into the roll bar area. That area has a lot of vertically oriented shapes, so "boxing" both sides should help. Also find any space between the panel and the drive train in which you can bond vertical walls, while tying all of that to the hinge area.
Looks good keep us updated!
I put gas springs on the rear hatch. I am not sure I like them.
I am moving the pedals back. They are too far forward for me.
This gas pedal it has is not what I want. I really don't want the cable along side my shoe ...
Attachment 734
I got this one for about $30:
Attachment 735
I need a plate with an angle in it to mount this up off the floor at the correct angle.
Got this throttle cable. It is heavy duty. The cable is .100 " diameter and the housing measures .260 " Outside Diameter.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...ow=&range_high
EDIT: Ok that cable is not too good. Too much drag even when oiled good. I got a better one by searching ebay "vw bug buggy morse" .
More pedal !
Attachment 736
I wonder if a drive by wire system would be a good option?
I have a carb, if I had an injection on it I would probably do throttle by wire.
A lot of body paint prep work going on to the fiberglass parts.
I am working on several parts and several others are at a shop.
Many parts got a gentle light abrasive "sandblast".
To clean and abraid the surfaces.
I am doing bodywork.
Here is a cad drawing:
Attachment 740
I am still doing bodywork and paint.
Getting rid of pop up headlights and redoing them now.
Working on a Porsche 914 350C.I. V8 too.
That build thread is at 914world.com
Jerry
Bought a Porsche Boxster S 6 speed transaxle.
And an Audi 01X 6 speed transaxle.
One for Manta, one for 914 V8.
are you putting the Porsche 6 speed in the Manta Mirage ? looking forward to this I get my Manta in about 3 weeks
I really don't know for sure which trans and engine I will put in there next.
I have heard of the Boxster s Transaxle from Renegade Hybrids in their 914 demo which I believe had 400-500 hp seemed to be holding up well.. what about the Audi O1x?
QUOTE: from Renegade Hybrids
"To increase strength, reliability, and performance, we have designed the Cayman kit around aBoxster Stransaxle. The Cayman transaxle was engineered lighter with physically smaller gears and shafts, and the ratios were very short, which is not favorable or strong enough for the V8. TheBoxster Stransaxle has repeatedly taken abuse over 600HP in our Boxsters, 914’s, & kit cars, and we have yet to see one fail. Even the gear ratios and optional upgrades are quite favorable to the V8 conversion using the Boxster S 6 speed transaxle. We understand that this means you will need to source a good used Boxster S tranny from a salvage yard, but your Cayman transaxle has value equivalent to the Boxster S in many cases."
I have been to Renegade. Many cool ideas and cool cars there.
By The Way, Years ago I bead blasted all the hardware and then nickle plated them.
Some we replaced with new hardware.
I am changing the headlights so they will be fixed and not pop ups.
Doing body work, and painting, and paint correction.
The whole body single stage gloss white first, and then more colors added.
3D printed adjustable mock up wheels. So I can buy the right rims and tires.
Something like 18X12 rear 18X10 fronts look about right.