Mirage (Re)build thread - Jerry

[Blueovalz]

That bevel on the rear panel was probably the hardest part of the bodywork I had to negotiate. Eventually I bought some Home Depot 1" angle aluminum, and put some PSA sandpaper on it and used it to finally get a straight edge and angle on the bevel, even in the corners (where the angle aluminum was cut at 45º to promote a sharp corner. It was a frustrating process prior to that. A short sanding block is pretty good once you get the bodywork shaped correctly. A long board (what I call an "idiot Stick" because it allows even a novice a better chance at a straight body) ensures long flat areas and long curves/corners are flat (something about the length of an air-file or the standard PSA paper). Once I'm ready for wet sanding, I start using the smaller blocks or pads. By then, it's a lot harder to sand waves or imperfections into the panels.

Some of my favorite hand tools to get a perfect body:

The best small sanding block I've ever used. The same size as a typical small sanding block:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stikit-Atta...sanding+blocks

A great intermediary block that is longer than the small ones, but shorter than the idiot sticks:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-5441-Stikit...sanding+blocks

About the best "long" sanding block out there:
http://www.hillas.com/Categories/3M-...4toaAi_t8P8HAQ

A good soft 600 grit or finer sanding block. It conforms to a lot of small curves and corners:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-05442-Stiki...sanding+blocks

The old-style blocks where the paper is folded under and punctured by three nails works okay, but they rarely are perfectly flat. The 3M stuff is about as good as it gets.

[Sulley]

That was real creative with the rear tail lights!

[Jerry]

Prepping fiberglass parts.




Many more areas to fix.

[Blueovalz]

Not sure what I am looking at other than some vise-grips on the right side.

[Jerry]

The rear hatch. The back window is above the visegrip. Previous owner cut out this area, I am putting the glass back. Just 1 of many cut or drilled or damaged places that need to be redone.

[Jerry]

The hatch closes and does not look right on the passenger side.
From the drivers side I made a wood template.
Here it is, flipped over to the passenger side.



When I close the rear hatch the passenger side does not match up so good.

[Jerry]

The hatch is warped. The geometry of the wood is right. The fiberglass needs to be reshaped so it matches the template.

[Blueovalz]

When I was remaking my bodywork, I felt the OEM Manta body panels were not "warped", but simply laid on a asymmetric molds.

[Jerry]

I think you are right. That area does look asymmetric. The previous owner cut out the webbing, as if to clear the 45 deg roll bar. I glassed it and now I am reglassing it in a little different position.

When the webbing was cut, the hatch shell shape opened up some.

[Jerry]

like this:



the white area was mostly cut out. I glassed it back but the shape had opened up.

To bring it back I made the cut you see, pulled the side in, clamped it, and glassed a small tab.

Now I will remove the clamp and shut the hatch and check the work.


Better fit now is less bondo.