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Champion Member
I had a similar problem with a previous car. Solution was to bond 1/4" ID fiber tubes (you could use larger if needed), one on each side, about 1" long each, into the fiberglass panel, and sanded flush with the top side surface. I slipped vacuum hose on the underside ends. Rain (or wash) water would drain down these small holes and out the vacuum tubing directed out under the car. The holes were barely noticeable, and served the purpose well. I used fiber tubes from McMaster.com because they would bond well with the fiberglass. I would hate to see you take the rear lip off.
Last edited by Blueovalz; 03-23-2016 at 09:05 PM.
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When I first got the car it had holes drilled in the trunk that just drained out through the bodywork since there was nothing back there anyway to hurt. I filled them in when I had the caddy 500 in and repainted the car. This time around I plan on putting a storage area in the back so that whole area will open up and I am wanting to keep it dry. I can make a wing that maintains the lines of the car and works without the problems the design has now. I am never going to take the car on the track so it isn't going to matter about changing the high speed handling. The electric drive system will have a top speed of around 90-100 anyway when it gets installed. I made a foam wing yesterday and it fits the car well. I have the post up on my site but it wasn't behaving last night to let me post it here. I will get it up here in a few minutes.
I will spend a few more days playing with the design and see if I can come up with something nice before I cut the spoiler off the trunk lid either way so other than wasting time I don't figure it is going to hurt anything if it doesn't work out.
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I didn’t get much time today to work on the car but I managed to get a few things done. First thing was level out the new trunk lid lip. I started by clamping a pvc pipe to the back to hold the slight curve I need. I tried measuring out a straight line for the trunk lid since it would be easier to make but the rear body is not made square enough and no matter what it doesn’t look even. A slight curve keeps it from being noticeable.
Once it was straight I covered it with packing tape to keep the trunk lid from sticking to it. I cut a bevel into the top so the new material will have a better bond. After that I put the filler back in place and laid a layer of fiberglass over it. The shape is only approximately right but it is such a large area it is hard to get everything right in one pass. My plan is to let it cure for a few days while I am at work then when I get back on it I can remove the support from underneath it and cut and form that single layer a bit better. Once it is close to where I want I will build it up and join it into the old body panels good. That should give me enough thickness to get it nice and flat and be thick enough to mount a trunk latch in it without breaking over time.
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Champion Member
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It has been cold and terrible weather for fiberglass work so not much has been done the last week or so. But the weather is looking better now so it is time to get the work on the trunk lid going again.
I have 5 layers of chopped fiberglass over the first mesh layer now. It is starting to look good and won’t be long before I have it thick enough to work. I figure another 3 layers of chopped fiberglass and maybe a layer of mesh on top to make it look nice should be about right. I need to build up the thickness of the back edge a lot more. I will probably put about 6 layers on it. Then after getting the top cut off I can go back under it and put several layers and get it to about 1/3 inch thick. It should hold up good and not warp or do anything for a long time if I make it that thick. I will let this part set up and dry for a few days and maybe by Wednesday I can get the last few layers done.
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