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Champion Member
That panel across the underside of your chassis will improve its torsional stiffness, provided that it is securely riveted or welded in place.
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Champion Member
I agree. I added a .125" aluminum sheet under everything forward of the engine. I have another piece for under the engine, but with all the heat in the back, and wanting to gain full visuals of the mechanicals back there in time of need, I chose to leave it off. Yeah, it was about 45 lbs, which accounts for one of many little things that have made the car stretch well beyond 2100lbs. What helps offset that angst, is added peace of mind in protecting the underside of my britches, a smooth, raked underbelly for some downforce, added chassis rigidity, and a barrier to water (not that I drive around in any adverse weather).
I'm sure you've thought of this, but will say it anyway. Don't forget to drill and occasional small drain hole for any fluid that may find its way onto this panel (specifically coolant). I drilled mine immediately next to the framing corners so that normal forces of driving push the fluid toward the holes, and makes it detectable if it's a slow leak.
Last edited by Blueovalz; 02-01-2021 at 09:34 PM.
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Drain Holes, very good idea! thanks
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and here the bolt thru the frame is visible, ignore the tape measure,
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On to the rear hatch, this made me nervous, when it's open it really bounces on the lower attaching point and where the metal mount is glassed to the rear hatch just didn't seem strong enough so I added more glass, used a double biaxial weave with mat on one side, works well for complex shapes.
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Also, for better body alignment, I had to move the rear hatch pivot point higher, can't even see the old hole, welded in nicely, (sorry the picsare rotated, not sure how to correct that, they correct orientation in the file folder)
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