Steering, got that figured out too, went with a Miata column, including the headlight and turn signal switch, along with an aftermarket detachable steering wheel,
Made some uprights and a cross bar to hang it on,
Steering, got that figured out too, went with a Miata column, including the headlight and turn signal switch, along with an aftermarket detachable steering wheel,
Made some uprights and a cross bar to hang it on,
Yeah, much better configuration there on the tail lights. Looks like it was intended to be this way. I don't know that the circular ones would have looked right, but think you're more on the mark with these. I believe you should clock your U-joints by turning the outer one 90º if you haven't already done so or welded it up.
Last edited by Blueovalz; 07-01-2021 at 09:42 AM.
Terry
Manta build photos
Thanks for the tip on the u-joints, yea I can still clock them
The only reason I mentioned it was there was because of a recent and lengthy string about this on the GT40s website, and though it would seem that this is much less critical for a steering shaft, than for half-shafts or drive-shafts, having it off by 90º appears to be the worst position, with 0º the best for removing any unnatural (and IMHO, significant) distortions from the normal expected steering feel.
Last thoughts while this is all exposed and being worked on...have you considered an EPAS for this car? I'm old enough and abused enough to have decided I needed to install one, which made driving the car a pleasure again (not that it wasn't, but it was difficult and painful to turn with the quick-ratio Porsche rack). You appear to have the where-with-all to be able to do that seeing what you've done already.
Last edited by Blueovalz; 07-01-2021 at 04:28 PM.
Terry
Manta build photos
Absolutely was considering EPAS, people are putting Saturn and Prius units in everything. Just got to the point where this project is taking a long time and figure it's a pretty light car and guessing for simplicity sake and time to complete the project I'd just skip it. I've driven a factory 5 cobra without power, it's a bit heavier in the front and it was fine so I figured I'd be fine...but I've never driven a mirage so not sure, maybe I re-think that.
Maybe I can hear from whoever's checking in on this, how much muscle does it really take to steer a Manta?
With a different rack, that may be hard to compare. My Porsche rack was about 1.5 turns lock to lock, which was great with no need of for hand-over-hand steering, and very responsive on the track, but it also made for a heavy wheel at slow speed with the 245 stickies on the front, and a 13" steering wheel. I don't know what your new rack's ratio is, but pretty sure it's going to be easier to steer than mine was. I also had a very small (near zero) scrub radius, so that had some impact to that as well.
Terry
Manta build photos
Dave,Originally Posted by Blueovalz
The steering effort depends on how fast you're going, among other things. MANTA 2 had BFG T/A 245 tires on the front and its steering felt "normal" at highway speeds but much heavier when it was not moving. My black Mirage (The Werewolf) runs Hoosier 265 race slicks on the front, a Flaming River steering rack, and standing still on concrete, it requires all my strength to turn the wheel. At speed it is not a problem at all.
For a street application the need for power steering in marginal but not a bad idea.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
it's been a while but been busy, catching up with posting picks, wanted to share how I did the lower door hinge, I wasn't completely happy with the way it's normally done, wanted more room to get in and out so came up with this,
when you look at it from the front it kind of looks like its floating
Its got a frame that runs through the inside of the door and doubles as the latch striker mount
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote